Weishan Old Town, Dali, Yunnan
Weishan Old Town is a hidden gem tucked away in the Ailao Mountains at the headwaters of the Red River, about 60 km south of Dali’s city center. Unlike the bustling Dali Ancient Town, Weishan remains remarkably untouched — a living, breathing museum of the Nanzhao Kingdom (738–902), the powerful empire from which all of Dali’s history springs. If Dali Ancient Town feels like a lively stage, Weishan is the quiet backstage where the real story began.
🏛️ The Birthplace of Nanzhao
Weishan is the cradle of the Nanzhao Kingdom, the empire that once ruled much of Southeast Asia and inspired the “Nanzhao” realm in the classic video game The Legend of Sword and Fairy (仙剑奇侠传). The town was founded during the Yuan Dynasty and rebuilt with brick walls during the Ming Dynasty, giving it over 600 years of continuous history. In 1994, it was designated one of China’s National Historical and Cultural Cities.
The city’s layout is a masterpiece of classical Chinese urban planning: a square “chessboard” grid with 24 streets and 18 lanes radiating from two central landmarks. The architecture is a harmonious blend of Han, Yi, and Bai ethnic styles, with whitewashed walls, carved wooden doors, and tilted eaves that have barely changed since the Ming and Qing dynasties.
🌟 Must-See Sights
| Attraction | Description |
|---|---|
| Gongchen Tower (拱辰楼) | The imposing North Gate, built in the early Ming Dynasty. At 23.5 meters tall, it remains the highest and most commanding structure in town. The south face bears the plaque “Kui Xiong Liu Zhao” (Dominating the Six Kingdoms); the north face reads “Wan Li Zhan Tian” (Gazing at Heaven for Ten Thousand Li). |
| Xinggong Tower (星拱楼) | Also called Wenbi Tower, this delicate, two-story pavilion sits at the exact center of the old town where the four main streets intersect. Built in 1390 and rebuilt in 1860, its upturned eaves and ornate ridge decorations offer a striking contrast to the muscular Gongchen Tower. |
| Nanzhao Museum | Housed inside the historic Dengjue Temple, this museum features seven exhibition halls with Nanzhao royal costumes, bronze artifacts, and cultural relics that bring the ancient kingdom to life. |
| Weishan Confucian Temple | One of the earliest Confucian temples in Yunnan, reflecting the region’s deep respect for scholarship and the classics. |
| Li Meng’s Study (李萌书屋) | A beloved local institution run by 89-year-old calligrapher Li Meng. His tiny shop, open only briefly each day, draws enthusiasts from across China to admire a lifetime of brushwork. |
| Jia Ma Woodblock Print Shop | A living heritage studio where an elderly couple carves and prints Jia Ma — traditional woodblock prints used in Bai folk rituals for blessing and protection. Visitors can try printing their own for about ¥10. |
| Xianfeng Academy Bookstore | A Ming Dynasty mansion converted into a serene bookstore, now one of the town’s cultural landmarks. |
| Mengyang Park | A classical Chinese garden with red walls, ancient trees, and layered grey-tile roofs — a favorite spot for photography. |
🎭 Living Heritage
Weishan is not a theme park; it’s a functioning town where locals still live in ancestral homes, run family shops, and practice crafts passed down for generations. You can:
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Print Jia Ma — Try your hand at this intangible cultural heritage woodblock art (¥10 for 3 prints).
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Sculpt a Wa Cat — Mold your own ceramic “roof guardian” cat, a traditional Bai talisman placed on ridgepoles to ward off evil.
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Tie-Dye — Experience the indigo batik techniques native to the Dali region.
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Watch the “Death Notices” — On the walls beneath Xinggong Tower, locals still post handwritten pink notices announcing funerals — a raw, unfiltered glimpse into community life.
🍜 What to Eat
Weishan is a pilgrimage site for food lovers, famous for noodle dishes that have been perfected over centuries:
| Dish | Description |
|---|---|
| One-String Noodles (一根面) | The town’s signature — a single, unbroken strand of hand-pulled noodle served in a rich broth. Try it at Su Laosan’s or Nanzhao Zhuji. |
| Braised Meat Rice Noodles (粑肉饵丝) | Tender stewed pork over smooth rice noodles in a thick, savory broth. A Weishan invention that has conquered all of Yunnan. |
| Crossing-the-River Rice Noodles (过江饵丝) | A unique “deconstructed” style where noodles and toppings are served separately, then “crossed” into the broth at the table. Lao Wang’s is the local legend. |
| Green Bean Rice Cakes (青豆小糕) | Fluffy, subtly sweet steamed cakes made with fresh green beans — a classic breakfast snack. |
| Weishan Preserves (巍山蜜饯) | Candied fruits and vegetables, a local specialty with a history stretching back centuries. |
| Grilled Rushan (烤乳扇) | Crispy, cheesy dairy sheets grilled on bamboo skewers — a Dali classic also done exceptionally well here. |
| Weishan Roast Tea (巍山烤茶) | Sit around a charcoal brazier as locals roast tea leaves in a clay pot, a ritual that predates modern coffee culture by a thousand years. |
Budget-friendly: A full meal rarely exceeds ¥20–30. A bowl of noodles costs ¥8–15.
🚗 How to Get There
| Method | Details |
|---|---|
| High-Speed Rail (Recommended) | From Dali Station to Weishan Station — just 22 minutes. From the station, a short bus or shuttle ride brings you to the old town. |
| Self-Drive | From Dali, take the Dawei Expressway; ~40–60 minutes. Park outside the old town (¥2–3/hour, ~¥10–20/day) and explore on foot. |
| Bus | From Xiaguan’s Xingsheng Bus Station, frequent buses run to Weishan (~1.5 hours, ¥15–35). From Dali Ancient Town, take Bus 4 to Xiaguan first, then transfer. |
| Tour Bus | A direct tourist shuttle runs from Dali Ancient Town; tickets available via the “Caiyun Tong” mini-program. |
🗺️ Suggested Itineraries
Day 1: Weishan City Walk
Mengyang Park → Xinggong Tower → Weishan Confucian Temple → Xianfeng Academy → Main Street (explore side alleys and courtyards) → Nanzhao Museum → Yunxi Coffee (in a converted temple) → Liang’s Mansion (private folk museum)
Day 2: Weibao Mountain
Take a taxi or bus to Weibao Mountain, a sacred Taoist mountain 10 km south of town. Hike through ancient forests to visit over 20 Ming and Qing Dynasty Taoist temples, including the stunning Changchun Cave with its intricate wood carvings. The mountain is also considered the spiritual birthplace of the Nanzhao Kingdom.
📌 Practical Tips
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Ticket | Free — the entire old town is open to wander without charge |
| Opening Hours | All day (individual sites vary, roughly 09:00–18:00) |
| Best Time | Spring (March–May) for the Long Street Banquet food festival; otherwise pleasant year-round |
| Footwear | The cobblestone streets are charming but hard on feet — wear comfortable, non-slip shoes |
| Pace | Plan for at least one full day in the old town, or two days if including Weibao Mountain |
| Sun Protection | High-altitude UV is strong; hat and sunscreen are essential |
🏡 Where to Stay
Weishan offers a growing selection of boutique guesthouses and traditional courtyard inns inside the old town, such as Liang’s Courtyard or Weifeng Xiaoyuan. Prices are refreshingly low compared to Dali, and staying overnight lets you experience the town after the day-trippers leave — when the only sound is the echo of your footsteps on 600-year-old stones.
If Dali Ancient Town is a vibrant song, Weishan is a poem written in whispers. Come here to walk the same streets where Nanzhao kings once rode, to eat noodles that have been perfected over centuries, and to discover the “real” Dali that most travelers never see.